Topic: radiator anyone?... (Read 176 times)

rockinveedubs · « **on:** February 26, 2011, 08:05:39 AM »

If its not one things its another... I was driveing home last night and suddenly all I saw in front and back of me was a cloud of white smoke that oddly enough smelled like mapple syrup! I knew exactly what it was. Pop the hood and saw the hose had came off. Tried putting it back on and came to the conclusion that the radiator inlet had broken off inside of the hose... great night! But anyway... anybody have a radiator for an 84 rabbit? I have one here but its beat to hell. Let me know if you or someone you know has a radiator. Thanks
Zach

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2011, 08:11:43 AM »

Would a mk1 jetta rad work?

Smokestack · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2011, 08:59:59 AM »

Yes, as would any mk2 radiator. Cars with AC had a higher capacity radiator FYI.

101stvet · « **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:08:19 AM »

Go with the AC car radiator my rabbit runs so much.better now....

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:31:13 AM »

From the AC mk2 golf/jetta?

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #5 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:35:30 AM »

UPAP has an 84 jetta. I could see if it has the rad. But no MK2s. That higher capasity sounds aweome though! Would anyone have one by any chance? Im looking to getvthis done today.

greggearhead · « **Reply #6 on:** February 26, 2011, 09:50:24 AM »

Rads mount 2 different ways, FYI - either with a pin that sticks down into 2 holes (with rubber washer cushions) in the front bottom panel (radiator support) or flat flanges that use to rubber bushings with studs and nuts into some of the same holes.

I dont trust old radiators very much - might be the same condition as yours and only last a week. Check price on new at all the local auto parts stores - might be better than you think.

The Asshole · « **Reply #7 on:** February 26, 2011, 12:54:10 PM »

or get yours rebuilt.... there is a good radiator shop down on weber/wasatch (can't remember the name tho)

Smokestack · « **Reply #8 on:** February 26, 2011, 07:20:51 PM »

Quote from: The Asshole on February 26, 2011, 12:54:10 PM

or get yours rebuilt.... there is a good radiator shop down on weber/wasatch (can't remember the name tho)

Manley's radiator. Not much they can do with plastic end tanks though.

All A/C cars had a higher capacity. My old mk2 non-A/C GTI had the same size radiator as a non-A/C cabby I saw at the junkyard. It started to leak so I replaced it with a radiator from a newer A/C equipped mk2. I might have a spare radiator, but it's going to be the better part of a week before I find out.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #9 on:** February 27, 2011, 12:14:07 AM »

I went to BAP today... they ordered one from denver... getbit home... take it out annnnnnd... to big! $102 and some change that bastard should have fit! I called them up and they said they would have the right one ready monday. The one I got was for an 84 rabbit with AC but it was too wide. The pins wouldn't even begin to go in. And the posts on the bottom didn't sit wherebthey were supposed to. Oh well... at least I'll have another radiator next week. Only this time let's hope it fits. Good part about this new radiator that im picking up monday it that its only $69! Gives me a few extra bucks back! I also bought a valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket. All new fluids+ new radiator+ new seals= a better running, less leaky, cooler running car!... hopefully. But now to get the damn valve cover off. That allen bolt that holds the timing belt cover on stripped out the block and starts to back out then when it comes out just far enough slides right back in. Can't get it off to save myself!

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #10 on:** February 27, 2011, 12:21:43 AM »

I replaced my valve cover and oil pans seals about 2 oil changes back and they leaked like crazy! I didn't have even a quart of oil come out! Not even half. Not even an 1/8! It was bone dry! These cars are amazing! If the oils leaks out as fast as it did last set of seals I guess I'll know its something else leaking. It'll do. Like I said I want to get my bug going and drive that till the rabbit is healthier. I've already dropped alot of new stuff into it. Gas tank, fuel pump, seals, tires, plugs and wires, cap and rotor, etc etc etc... now another set of seals ands new radiator! Hopefully this holds me over a while! Im tired of haveing a boken ass volkswagen! Cant

greggearhead · « **Reply #11 on:** February 27, 2011, 07:07:17 AM »

Couple options on that timing belt allen - if you can get some vice grips around the outside of it, that should allow you to start loosening it up. Otherwise, you might be able to hammer in a Torx or a 12 point metric allen bit to get it loosened up.

The valve cover and oip pain gaskets are usually not an issue. If you overtighten either of them, they will leak for sure. Also, if you tighten them unevenly, the oil pan gasket will for sure leak.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #12 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:48:31 AM »

I may ask my buddy if I can use his torque wrench. I have one but its pretty old school. One of those old needle jobs. And the allen slot itself isnt stripped. The engine block is. That little rubber gasket keeps the bolt from coming out. I have the cover painted up pretty nice so I didn't want to wreck them. Ended up doing that anyway... bummer. Im going to try to pry the dam thing out with view grips from the inside of the belt cover. Hopefully that does soemthing for me.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #13 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:50:15 AM »

What are the torque specs for both oil pan and valve cover? Should I use some lock washers to keep the nuts from backing off?

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #14 on:** February 27, 2011, 09:54:58 AM »

Bentley or hayne's manual is your friend.

Smokestack · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2011, 10:50:59 AM »

Something like 9-12 ftlbs. Basically, grab the head of the ratchet (not the handle) with your weaker hand and snug it real good. You only need to compress the gasket a little. Also, buy a Bentley manual. You shouldn't even be working on your car until you have one in your hands.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2011, 01:49:09 PM »

I may have one around somewhere. I got the bolt loose for the timing belt cover but it seems like the allen head sorts threads into a bolt. And the bolt came out of the block. The allen head is stick inside. Not sure ifthats the case? I feel like I remember the allen head being pretty small. So I think im right about it being threaded into a bolt. I see the head of a bolt on the inside of the cover still connected to the allen head.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #17 on:** February 27, 2011, 03:04:40 PM »

I finally got the darn cover off. I wont be able to hold it on the same way though. The block is stripped out now.

greggearhead · « **Reply #18 on:** February 27, 2011, 04:56:04 PM »

You don't need to run the upper cover. Heck, the Fox doesn't even have a guard or lower cover or anything!

Yep, its really easy to overtighten the valve cover gasket. I usually use a very, very thin coating of ultra grey RTV on the gasket and a touch on the half-round rubber seal and the rubber piece that goes over the #1 cam bearing.

On the pan gasket, make sure you have a wobble extension for the 2 bolts that are snugged up between the engine and trans. They go into aluminum and are super easy to cross-thread, fyi.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #19 on:** February 27, 2011, 06:36:45 PM »

Gotvthe top end put back together! Tomorrow onto the bottom! Im picking up what I hope will be the right rad... and yeah those bolts are a pain in the you know what... hopefully I'll have the car driveing in the next 2 days! I have the old rad still in. How do I go about doing a coolent flush?

greggearhead · « **Reply #20 on:** February 28, 2011, 08:11:28 AM »

Undoing the bottom radiator hose, that goes to the t-stat on the bottom of the water pump, will get 90% of it out. The only coolant that won't be out will be in the heater core. If you really want to get that out, you can hook up a garden hose, plug the bottom of the rad, make sure the heater valve is open, and turn on the hose. Unluss your coolant is pretty cruddy looking, I wouldn't worry about getting that last little bit - makes a huge mess, too.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #21 on:** February 28, 2011, 08:47:46 AM »

My violent is pretty dirty. How do I open the heater valve?

Smokestack · « **Reply #22 on:** February 28, 2011, 07:59:48 PM »

Move the temperature gauge to hot.

Don't worry about putting the timing cover on. It doesn't do anything except keep people that shouldn't touch it from touching it. Only times I've ever seen an issue stemming from timing covers is when they're either I'll fitting or not complete.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #23 on:** February 28, 2011, 09:27:55 PM »

Don't I feel smart...

got the timing belt cover back on. It may not be needed but looks better! Knave both top and bottom sealed up now! Leaving the gasket gunk set over night. I'll fill her up with fluids tomorrow. Got the correct radiator! The tempbswitch is in a different position. On the back compared tobthe side like my current rad. Ripping the old one out tomorrow. Should be done tomorrow hopefully! My idle adjust screw came loose and wiggled itself out. Im sitting at 3000 rpm constantly! Its embarrasing! Lol anyone know where I could get one? BAP said it may only be something I find at the dealership.. could ibtrust a used one or will I get the same result?

Smokestack · « **Reply #24 on:** February 28, 2011, 10:18:26 PM »

Quote from: rockinveedubs on February 28, 2011, 09:27:55 PM

...got the timing belt cover back on. It may not be needed but looks better

You say that now, but wait till it rubs through a belt.

The screw is probably only something you'll find only at a junkyard. You can probably use one off of a mk2 if need be.

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Author Topic: radiator anyone?... (Read 176 times)