Since I don't feel like being a good student and working on my calc homework I'm going to update this thread. I finally got the parts I was missing too.
First and foremost, I hate the color red. Too many times I've shot myself in the foot because I bought something other than the red car and ended up with even more of a money pit. Obviously I sucked it up this time and plan to paint the car another color as soon as I have the time and money. Since it's a serious pain to paint an engine bay with the engine and harness in it I took the time to spray a on the cheap 2 stage black. Black goes good with just about any color choice I may have for the car in the future so I shouldn't have to revisit it. Since it's not a show car I'm not going to go through the hassle of deleting and shaving stuff. I had a lot of clear left over from a past project and I picked up some of that Duplicolor paint in a quart can for ~$20. Unfortunately I had a seal fail in my gun that clogged the sprayer. By the time I fixed it I had wasted a lot of black, but still had enough to coat the bay and fenderwells. I'm curious to see how well it holds up, but for $20 I can't really complain. I would have spent at least that trying to spray bomb it.
And I got the fender wells too.
Finished resealing the engine and installed new belts. I didn't feel like pulling and paying for a MK3 power steering line in the junkyard so I got creative.
There's two main differences between the MK2 and MK3 pump. The first is they both use different fittings for the pressure hose on the pump. The second is the offset on the pulley flange is different (MK3 sticks out more). Most people opt to change to the MK3 steering line, but I like swapping flanges better. You have more room to work and it's generally less greasy.
I used 3 bolts and 3 nuts that were too small for them to thread into to make a puller and pulled the pump flange off of the MK3 pump.You do this to pull off both flanges.
On the pump shaft there's threads in the center of it. To install the flange back onto the pump you thread a bolt (or all-thread with a nut) into it and tighten it to press the flange back on. If you've ever had to change out a power steering pump on a GM car or truck it's the same process.
There's no stop on the pump so you have to be careful not to run it in too much. If so , you can use the "puller" to pull it back out. Easiest way to line it up is to install the pump with the pulley on the flange and tighten it until the pump pulley lines up with the waterpump pulley.
The engine is in. I've started work on the electrical now. Like I said earlier I'm going to try and keep it smog compliant. Really it's not too hard. Smog equipment on the car is the cat, second O2 sensor, EVAP purge valve, charcoal canister, canister valve (not sure of the technical name, but it's on the bottom of the charcoal canister and closes the drain for leak tests), leakdown pump, and crankcase to intake breather valve. Now I'm OCD about cells, so I had a choice of paying $100 for a race file to turn off the smog checks, or spend less than $10 on parts and a little bit of time hooking up the smog parts. Since the smog parts don't really take anything away, and I don't have something like a cam to take advantage of a chip I'm going that route for now. Whether or not it stays depends on the direction I take the car in the future.
Next up is to finish installing the parts I ordered, install the suspension, plumb the radiator hoses and put the AC components in. Since I'm running AC I have to use a G60 radiator. The G60 and the ABA upper radiator hoses are completely different so I have to get creative. The exhaust might have to wait for a different weekend and I know I won't be able to get to the ABS for a bit.
