Topic: Go fast parts for mk3 jetta? (Read 496 times)

Blakester · « **Reply #25 on:** June 23, 2010, 05:28:44 AM »

I might be able to pull a head of an AEB. What else would be involved as far as intake, exhaust, and when it all comes time to hook everything up? (wireing/plumbing)

Smokestack · « **Reply #26 on:** June 23, 2010, 09:30:11 AM »

Quote from: Blakester on June 23, 2010, 05:28:44 AM

I might be able to pull a head of an AEB. What else would be involved as far as intake, exhaust, and when it all comes time to hook everything up? (wireing/plumbing)

I believe the intake manifold will interfere with the distributor, and since the 1.8t was a distributorles s system that's going to be your largest hangup. You can find a way to make the dizzy work or go with a standalone engine management and run a distributorles s ignition system. You might have to fab something for the throttle cable since the majority of 1.8ts are drive-by-wire. Any 1.8t exhaust manifold and turbo will work, but some are better than others (stock vs revised stock vs aftermarket). I believe TT makes a downpipe for 1.8t swaps into a mk2/mk3. On top of all that you'll have to do all of the same things for a 16v head conversion to this head. In some ways it might be easier to do a full 1.8t swap with engine management.

Barry · « **Reply #27 on:** June 23, 2010, 09:48:11 AM »

just buy Gabe's car, and swap everything in at this point!

The Asshole · « **Reply #28 on:** June 23, 2010, 03:19:54 PM »

Quote from: Barry on June 23, 2010, 09:48:11 AM

just buy Gabe's car, and swap everything in at this point!

or swap body parts onto Gabes car to make it look better and sell the other one....

greggearhead · « **Reply #29 on:** June 23, 2010, 04:38:11 PM »

OK Blake - everybody's got an opinion - just like compression ratios on air cooleds.

My opinion - put a few bolt-ons on your driver and drive it. Buy Jeff's ABA engine and build it up for boost. Its really not hard with these motors, either. When you boost them, adding valves for more flow isn't as important, so spending $600-1000 for a 16/20V head would be better spent in putting your own turbo kit together, or buying forged pistons of the correct compression to take another 5psi of boost, etc etc.

That said - Jeff's got my big-time respect for putting a 16V head on his ABA bottom end DRIVER car. Love that. Props.

SwiftMKIII · « **Reply #30 on:** June 23, 2010, 09:00:49 PM »

Quote from: greggearhead on June 23, 2010, 04:38:11 PM

That said - Jeff's got my big-time respect for putting a 16V head on his ABA bottom end DRIVER car. Love that. Props.

Thanks Greg. Solid enough to daily, and I took it to TX for a road trip about 800 miles after the swap. 1600+ round trip.

Blake, as much as I like faster, maintained always comes first. You are now driving a car with a timing belt... good 'ol fashioined rubber belt. Though there are differing positions as to whether the ABA is an interference motor, a new TB would be a good idea. The stock water pump also has a plastic impeller, know to fail. Other than that, they are rock solid motors.

Blakester · « **Reply #31 on:** June 23, 2010, 09:05:45 PM »

I understand Greg, I am just trying to get as much info as I can so I know my options. The head swap seems like it would be a pain. I am just trying to figure out what can be done. PLUS I am sure a properly setup turbo'd 8v would make more power than a 16v NA motor anyways.

I gotta first do brakes, windshield, wheels and tires, and suspension, on top of maintenance like oil change, trans. gear oil change, Plugs, (wires look new)and a timing belt and water pump are also on the list. All that will be done before I get too deep into a motor build. But now I kinda know what I am looking at and where to look now and I kinda have a game plan. Thanks to everyone for being patent with my 100 questions.

greggearhead · « **Reply #32 on:** June 28, 2010, 08:18:58 AM »

Hey Blake - I've got a new: Water pump, timing belt, plastic coolant outlets (crack once in a while), valve cover gasket, v-belt, serpentine belt, fuel filter, heater core and maybe some more.

Hafta check to make sure it would all be correct - I bought it for my 97 and never used it, happy to sell it to you at a deep discount.

Blakester · « **Reply #33 on:** June 28, 2010, 04:47:42 PM »

Yeah, I may be interested if everything will work with my motor. pm sent.

Do these cars/motors use special VW only coolant? Or can I just run the green stuff?

SwiftMKIII · « **Reply #34 on:** June 28, 2010, 06:54:18 PM »

Quote from: Blakester on June 28, 2010, 04:47:42 PM

Do these cars/motors use special VW only coolant? Or can I just run the green stuff?

DO NOT mix VW G11 with Green stuff.

Purists would tell you that you have to use VW G-11 in yours.

... but if you flush out the system well, green stuff works just fine.

Blakester · « **Reply #35 on:** June 28, 2010, 07:04:07 PM »

It seems like there is green stuff in there, doesnt look mixed or anything ,I just noticed the other day its a little low, Wanted to make sure I didnt HAVE to run the special stuff. Thanks!

SwiftMKIII · « **Reply #36 on:** June 28, 2010, 07:15:57 PM »

When it is mixed, it makes the reservior REALLY nasty dirty looking.

Barry · « **Reply #37 on:** June 29, 2010, 05:19:50 AM »

Blake... as a part of your renovation, and preventative maintenance, I'd highly suggest doing a complete coolant flush, and refill with G11. I actually run G12 in all of my VW's.... G12 has better cooling characteristic s, and is made for cooling aluminum blocks / heads. VR's and 1.8T's require G12, but my 16V has it in there too.

Get 6 or 7 gallons of distilled water from the groccery store, a hose union, and a 6 feet piece of hose the same size as the hose going into the top side of your coolant bottle.

The flush takes about 30 minutes, and once you are done, you know you only have G11 or G12 (your preference) and distilled water in your system.

I'd also take the coolant bottle off, and clean it real good. I cleaned mine in the kitchen sink with dish soap. (Yeah... the wife was thrilled to seee that in there!)

greggearhead · « **Reply #38 on:** June 29, 2010, 07:33:34 AM »

My opinion, and everyone's got one, is that the green stuff is fine. The basic VW/Audi 4 cyl iron block and aluminum head combo have been around since 1973, and there hasn't been an issue using 'standard' coolant/antifreeze in that time (unlike the Wasserboxer engines, etc). Just keep it relatively fresh (2yrs - drain and refill completely) and it shouldn't ever be a problem. Really old coolant is usually what causes the problems with corrosion and failed components that I have seen in the past.

Smokestack · « **Reply #39 on:** June 29, 2010, 07:51:36 AM »

I'm with Greg.

From my research the only difference between the G coolants and the typical green or orange/pink is G11 and G12 are low in phosphorus and have slightly different dyes in them for cool colors (a blue green for G11 and pink or purple for G12). Europe's water is harder and doesn't react well with standard coolants (High phosphorus) while North America's water has no adverse effects with our standard coolants. VW switched the Vanagons over to G11 first in their lineup to fix head gasket issues in the late 80's. Around 91-92 (my 90 GLI still came with and called for standard coolant) VW had switched their entire line up to G11 to keep things "simple" and make an extra buck. The only bad thing I've ever found with mixing the G coolants with standard coolants is discoloration and/or goop in the plastic reservoir, but that could easily be just a dirty system that's never been flushed or non distilled water used to mix it with. I've seen the same thing in a variety of other manufacturers overflow tanks that have never seen any G coolants.

The G coolants work well, but can be expensive. BAP is probably cheaper, but the dealership quoted me $32 for 1 gallon of G12. 1 gallon of Dexcool at Advanced was $12. With G coolants you're also stuck with buying them from either BAP or the dealership, so keep an extra bottle or two in the garage if you run them. Because of the price and limited availability the only time I ever run G coolants is if I know the vehicle still has a 100% G coolant mixture in the system. If there's any question of what's in it (usually any car built before 2000) I flush the system and put standard coolant back in.

Barry · « **Reply #40 on:** June 29, 2010, 08:17:11 AM »

I only prefer G12 because it is OEM, and free for me

Smokestack · « **Reply #41 on:** June 29, 2010, 08:25:29 AM »

Quote from: Barry on June 29, 2010, 08:17:11 AM

...and free for me

Benefits of having a clean, OEM+, 16v, 1992, alpine white, mk2 GTI that a lot of people envy, or are you really "friendly" with your parts guy?

Barry · « **Reply #42 on:** June 29, 2010, 10:00:04 AM »

friendly... yeah... service manager is my little brother...

Blakester · « **Reply #43 on:** June 30, 2010, 05:38:12 PM »

I think I'll stick with the green for a little while, then try some of the VW stuff later on down the road , I was just worried that the green stuff in it was a really bad thing, Even though it looks purtty clean.

I am having hard time figuring out how to do the flush though, Can someone draw me a picture? lol Whats the 6 ft piece of hose for?

Smokestack · « **Reply #44 on:** June 30, 2010, 06:01:40 PM »

The way I flush is by taking off the the heater hose that comes out of the head side of the head, inserting a garden hose in with a clamp to hold it, turn the faucet on, start the car and let it run until the water comes out clear on the side of the head and add a couple of minutes. This usually takes me about 5-15 minutes. After that I pull the lower rad hose and thermostat (might have to hose out the radiator from the top hose once the lower hose is off) to drain the water out then I refill with my choosen antifreeze. This is my method but others might have a better/easier way of doing it.

Bit of useful advice; drill a small hole in the thermostat to bleed air through. The little hole won't make a difference with the coolant cycling, but it will prevent any air from being trapped against the thermostat keeping it from opening up.

nobuggybob · « **Reply #45 on:** June 30, 2010, 08:03:42 PM »

I am having hard time figuring out how to do the flush though, Can someone draw me a picture? lol Whats the 6 ft piece of hose for?

That 6 ft hose is so that you can drain the water out of your ears

VWs don't have water in them!

The Asshole · « **Reply #46 on:** June 30, 2010, 11:06:58 PM »

Quote from: Smokestack on June 30, 2010, 06:01:40 PM

The way I flush is by taking off the the heater hose that comes out of the head side of the head, inserting a garden hose in with a clamp to hold it, turn the faucet on, start the car and let it run until the water comes out clear on the side of the head and add a couple of minutes. This usually takes me about 5-15 minutes. After that I pull the lower rad hose and thermostat (might have to hose out the radiator from the top hose once the lower hose is off) to drain the water out then I refill with my choosen antifreeze. This is my method but others might have a better/easier way of doing it.

Bit of useful advice; drill a small hole in the thermostat to bleed air through. The little hole won't make a difference with the coolant cycling, but it will prevent any air from being trapped against the thermostat keeping it from opening up.

hopefully you have a large bucket to catch all the anti-freeze you are dumping, because it is extremely toxic to animals and people alike and if it goes into the storm water system it will be dumped into the nearest river unprocessed, cleaned or filtered and polluting that water system.

best way to flush is to drain the old, fill it with water, run the car for 10 minutes, drain again. then fill with your pre-diluted mix.

Barry · « **Reply #47 on:** July 01, 2010, 05:17:05 AM »

Right... suddenly, Jimmy is the resource conservation tree hugger we all know him to be....

Anyways.... not that I condone dumping coolant.... There are right and wrong ways to do this.

Blake.... check out the picture I attached. You basically disconnect the smaller of the 2 hoses going into the coolant tank (topside) and put you hose union into the end of that hose. Attach your 6 foot etension to the union, and run it over your fender, into a bucket.

As your car is running, it will pull coolant from the tank through the large hose on the bottom side. The system cycles the coolant, and the return is the smaller hose, which is now fed into a bucket. After you car warms up, it will empty that exansion tank fairly quickly, so make sure you have your distilled water ready to pour. I will let the system cycle and continue adding distilled water until the liquid coming out of the hose into the bucket is perfectly clear.

At this point, I start adding my coolant (G-12 prefered by me).

If the system takes 3 gallons of coolant, I will pour in 1 1/2 gallons of G-12, which in the end would come out to a 50/50 mix. It is usually a little bit low, in which case, I will top off the system with coolant, as oppossed to water. gives it a slightly higher concentration of coolant. You probably want to do this anyway, since it will decrease the freezing temperature, and increase the cooling capacity of the fluid.

Let me know if you need more explanation.

[attachment deleted by admin]

Blakester · « **Reply #48 on:** July 03, 2010, 06:55:19 AM »

alright, I think I got it. thanks!

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Author Topic: Go fast parts for mk3 jetta? (Read 496 times)