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[Blakester]

I am looking for basic bolt on parts for a 94 jetta, Would Like to start with a chip, intake, exhaust, and lowering springs. Who should I get all this stuff from. anyplace in town?

[Blakester]

Oh, and I really dont know sh*t about this car yet, but what are some common motor swaps? I keep seeing stuff about a 16 Valve, My 2.0 is a 8V right? Whats required to run a VR6? I have thought of turboing the 2.0 but it will be a daily driver.

I need to be learned about this H2o stuff,

[SwiftMKIII]

Blake, welcome to Watercooled.  The MKIII is a great place to start.  If you haven't spent any time there yet, www.vwvortex.com will be a great place for information.  The search feature is not the greatest in their new software, but if you are willing to wade through a ton of BS, there is some great info.

The car you are driving has an ABA motor.  8v, 2.0L, with about 115 HP stock.  Going faster is not difficult, but maintenance is key.  A good place to start looking is here http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/index.htm.  Dan is considered something close to a god on VWVortex for MKIIIs.

If you have a manual trans, it is an O2O, and engraved on the bottom of the bellhousing is a 3 letter code that will give you a reference for gearing.  There is a guy in Columbus, OH that is the o2o transmission guru, at www.brokevw.com.

For A chip, the ECU is under the black plastic raintray cover at the base of the windshield.  Just need to take off the passenger side cover.  A good place to look for a new Naturally Aspirated chip is techtonicstuning.com.  They go for around $100.  You can find used ones as well.

Turbos are easy on these cars.  There are a couple kits out there, or you can build a junkyard kit for about $1000-$1500 or less  VWVortex forced induction classifieds are great for finding the stuff you need for that.  Victor, one of the local guys might have a FI chip he'd get rid of for cheap.  It is pre-'95, so it is OBDI, with a forged crank and rods, and oil squirters that squirt oil at the bottoms of the pistons.  Great setup for FI.

The 16v stuff around here is mostly me.  I did a 16v head swap off a 9a.  It is not a difficult swap, but it is pretty intensive.  There is a huge thread in the VWVortex hybrid/swap technical forum about it.  If this is a direction you are considering, read it, but be warned that it doesn't all apply to running the ABA/16v swap in a MKIII.  A lot of the early posts were about putting an ABA/16v swap in a MKII.

Daily driving a Turbo is no a real issue.  a couple of us around here do already.  I daily a 16v hybrid, supercharged ABA on about 13psi.  Victor dailys a 95 Cabriolet on about 15psi. 

I'm sure there's plenty more, but I have to run.  feel free to ask questions, I'll be happy to answer what I can.

VR6 swaps are fairly straightforwar d.  You need the motor, tranny, subframe, harness, shift box, pedal cluster, and dash cluster.  They all bolt in.  though there is much to gain in a VR6 swap, the MKIII came VR6, so it is likely more cost effective to buy a VR jetta.

[Giggidy]

VR it

/thread

[Smokestack]

The 2.0 liter ABA engine in your car is one heck of a motor. They're stout and run for just about forever. They take force induction well and are cheap to work with. For power adders, start with "swiss cheesing" your airbox behind the headlight and fender area. Most people feel that this is better than they typical filter-on-a-stick intake system, and gives equal or better power at a fraction of the cost (your time with a drill or saw vs. $100+). A Techtonics Tuning exhaust is always a good addition. They're inexpensive and good quality with mild power gains and have a good sound. Probably one of your best bang for your bucks would be with a new cam. Generally they run $100 new for one but you can usually find them used on the Vortex for a lot less. Couple all of that with a chip and you'll have a pretty fun and quick little daily driver. If you want to think about winning races you'll want to start looking into either a turbo or super charger.

It is true that a vr swap is just a bolt in, but it is still very involved. VR equipped cars use different tranny's with different shifter and clutch systems, different subframes, different suspensions (front and rear), different brakes, and have a different bolt pattern. You can mix and match 4 cylinder stuff to try and keep the cost down, but it ends up looking half assed on a mk3 (the older VWs that never came with one can pass it off). Considering that the best and probably the most popular way to do a VR swap into a car is to buy a parts car, you're probably better off just buying a car already with a VR6 from the factory to drive.

The only real place in town to buy parts at is BAP. I personally do internet purchases through various companies (NGP, Germanautopart s.com, ECS tuning, rapidparts.com, MJM autohaus, etc) for stock replacement and upgrades, but there are places up in Denver you can go to if you want someone a bit closer. The first thing you should buy is a Bentley repair manual. They're worth more than their weight in gold.

[greggearhead]

You've got some good advice here, Blake, and lots of friendly people to help. 

I'd second the Techtonics Tuning chip suggestion - or a Neuspeed chip, etc.  One thing to be aware of, without a chip, you can run on cheap 85 octane, but with a chip (or forced induction) it needs 91 octane.  If most of your driving is in town, your mileage will go down with a chip (runs a little richer on acceleration, etc). 

TT also makes good exhausts that fit and don't cost too much.  I had a problem with mine - the extra center resonator I ordered on my system (trying to be more neighborhood friendly) started to rattle internally.  Was almost as quiet without it after removing, FYI, still has 2 mufflers left.  Eurosport used to make decent exhausts too.  You shouldn't need anything bigger than 2.25", even with a mild turbo, maybe 2.5". 

A mild cam also makes these engines respond and there are plenty out there for $100ish.  I just sold one for $75 a few weeks back.  Basically there is a 260 that is mild enough to pass emissions with and stock springs are OK - this mild cam is also great for forced induction.  There is a combo 260/268 that is a bit better for FI.  The 268 (or Autotech 270) are good cams that are still pretty mild, but likely require better springs.  I can't remember if all ABAs were single spring, or just the OBDII?  If you switch from single springs to dual, you need new spring seats and retainers, just like on a Type 1. 

Autotech is another company that has a fair amount of stuff available.  I would watch craigslist and the classifieds on Vortex - used is the best way to save money.  People change projects, whatever and used parts are obviously much cheaper. 

For run-around springs, I love Neuspeeds and H & R Sports.  To go low-low like the cool kids, you will need a "cup Kit" or adjustable coilovers.  People on here have had good luck with the Racemark stuff I think for cheap. 

I wouldn't do the VR swap, as it would be more time and money than just buying a VR Car.  A cheap turbo setup, bought parts over time would be the best way to go IMO.  Nate did a setup on his ABA that made 165hp at the wheels even though it was pig-rich.  Set up correctly, and driven well, you can still get good fuel mileage.  My Golf got 32-39mpg all the time.  The lowest I ever got was 29mpg.  The highest was 39.8mpg with chip, exhaust, intake opened, lowered.  I laugh at the people that boast about Hybrids, etc. when you can get mileage like that from a VW that's 15+ Yrs old with 130k on it. 

[Blakester]

I think I will stick with the 2.0. Like you are all saying, do a cam, intake, exhaust, Chip, header, adj. timing gear, and a short shift kit to get me going. I would like to boost it but I will wait untill I get another project closer to done and a newer motor in the jetta, its got 197.000 miles on it and dont think it would be worth turboing with out me going through the whole thing.

What is required to install dual springs on one of these motors? I know on T1's you need to machine the valve guide boss so the inner springs will fit around it.

My boss might have a spring kit for the car I am gonna try to score today.

[Southcross]

your going to notice the biggest improvement from (any) Cam + chip + exhaust... all can be done quite easily by even the not-so-technical tinkerer.  Valve springs are going to be a different issue, ideally you need to pull the head and have a shop disassemble it to do the springs (if your engine needs them).  I'd bet $10 that they get it apart and inform you the valve guides are worn (valve stems possibly too).... especially with 197k on the engine

by itself exhaust will provide a big benefit, because even with better intake & fuel, you can't improve the performance much if you can't get the exhaust gasses out...

If you do need Valve springs, I'd suggest start with exhaust, find yourself a used cylinder head (junkyard, craigslist, VWVortex, here, etc) with lower miles.  Take the head to a machine shop, have them clean/check/surface it and if necessary put the new springs & cam into that head.  Do a head swap one afternoon and be happy

[LOS]

Welcome to the club. Don't know shit about the 2.0 but I can tell you plenty about mk3's if you need anything non engine specific. I have a boosted vr and love it, but the 2.0's are pretty fun with some work done to them. Jeff has done a good job with his, he can guide you pretty well. I'll tell you to get a vr6 but then again I don't daily my car so I don't worry about gas mileage.

[Barry]

Go fast - http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/products/Kinetic_Motorsport_Stage2_MKIII_2_0L_Turbo_Kit_OBD1-493-98.html


Easiest way to achieve HP... fix all of the other shit on your car, and clean it up, and save this for next year's tax return (If Obama lets us get one  )

[Smokestack]

You can change the valve springs in the car, but you do run the risk of them falling into the combustion chamber. To minimize that happening you can move the piston to the top of its stroke on the cylinder you're working with. I've also heard of people making a fitting so that they can pressurize the cylinder with an air hose through the spark plug hole. There shouldn't be any special machining unless you just want to freshen the head up.

[Blakester]

 I like the get an extra cyl head idea, and have it built, Maybe I will wait a while and build a whole motor to be boosted.

My boss does have a set of springs, they are neuspeed, and say VW jetta3, Golf, and VR6. I figure they will work but I want to call Neuspeed first to make sure. I dont want to blow the car apart just to find out they are not the right springs. I also would like to replace the strut inserts, what brand should I look at getting?

[Blakester]

I have access to a tool that will pressurize the cylinder.

[Smokestack]

VR6 cars have slightly stronger springs in the front of the car to account for the extra weight of the motor. You can use them in your car but it will sit high in the front and you will need to get VR6/newer 4cylinder strut bearings and spring plates. The VR6 strut bearings are definitely worth converting to though. You just have to pick the right spring plate or go with coilovers.

The previous owner of my car put Neuspeed springs on with Bilstien struts. For the ride they give I would rather have cheap coilovers. At least then I'd be able to adjust the ride height to justify the "sporty" ride. Don't get me wrong, they don't ride bad, but they are firmer than what I would like for a daily. Most of that could probably be fixed with adjustable Koni struts. I do really miss the cheapy FK coilovers I had on my old GTI though.

[The Asshole]

opposed to doing a 16v head, you can also do a 1.8t AEB head and turbo on a 2.0ABA.....  which is about as extensive as the 16v head swap.

[Southcross]

opposed to doing a 16v head, you can also do a 1.8t AEB head and turbo on a 2.0ABA.....  which is about as extensive as the 16v head swap.

1.8t heads require coolant/oil passage modification/plugging as its not a direct bolt on.... I had already thought of doing this

[greggearhead]

Blake's a pretty technical guy and will have no problem doing the work, just a new area for him.  Good guy, too. 

I've got a few of the pressurizing fittings too - have done it several times.  Just an FYI - the car has to be in gear, on the ground, and BLOCK the wheels, front and rear of the front wheels, e-brake on, etc.  It doesn't take that much pressure to push that piston down, and it WILL move the car.  And then drop the valve into the chamber and probably run the car into/over something etc.   

[Blakester]

Blake's a pretty technical guy and will have no problem doing the work, just a new area for him.  Good guy, too.  

I've got a few of the pressurizing fittings too - have done it several times.  Just an FYI - the car has to be in gear, on the ground, and BLOCK the wheels, front and rear of the front wheels, e-brake on, etc.  It doesn't take that much pressure to push that piston down, and it WILL move the car.  And then drop the valve into the chamber and probably run the car into/over something etc.  

Yeah, I think I'd feel comfortable with doing the work, Just mostly would need to know tolerance/clearances and whatnot. Maybe have someone around to smack me on the back of the head is I am doing something wrong.

The more I think about it, the more I think I want to go all out and build a whole motor to be boosted. Anyone have a ABA core laying around? I built a 2.1 stroker for my super beetle this winter which makes decent power but I kick my self in the @$$ for not building it for a turbo (its got high compresion, small 8mm head studs, didnt take the valve guide material out of the exhaust ports.)

[Smokestack]

A Bentley manual will answer most any questions you might have. With a hydraulic lifter head a cam installation is mostly a bolt and go affair. The most difficult thing is torquing the bearing caps and timing the cam.

If you want to build a motor for boost get another 93-95 ABA. That's the best ABA platform to build from, but the ODB2 96-99 ABA would be fine unless you're going for stupid power. Swing by U Pull and Pay to pick up a cheap builder motor.

[SwiftMKIII]

I have an OBDII ABA block with unknown miles and a solid head with 187000 Miles I'd get rid of for pretty cheap if you are interested.

[Blakester]

How much compression do these motors have stock?

[SwiftMKIII]

How much compression do these motors have stock?

About 10.0:1

[Blakester]

As far as the VR6 strut bearings go, do I run them all around? Or just the fronts?

[Smokestack]

There's only bearings in the front to allow the strut to turn with the wheel. The rear are just rubber bushings and are not specific to the VR6.

Front conversion kit. http://www.ngpracing.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=3787

[The Asshole]

opposed to doing a 16v head, you can also do a 1.8t AEB head and turbo on a 2.0ABA.....  which is about as extensive as the 16v head swap.

1.8t heads require coolant/oil passage modification/plugging as its not a direct bolt on.... I had already thought of doing this

yes the AEB head has 5 oil passages per side (0 0 0 0 0) the aba block looks like ( 0  0  0) so you have to tap and thread every other one and put a hex-key plug in them; so it looks like (0 x 0 x 0) ...that is not that hard to do.  After that it IS a direct bolt on. ( any machine shop can do it for you prolly for ~100.00

i bought AEB 2 heads for 250.00 each when my t-belt snapped on my A4 1.8t the head rebuild cost ~200.00 at burts machine shop and included a 5angle valve job. so say 600.00 ish for the head, then the other parts are easy to com eby and relatively cheap all in all it is bit more costly (money and time) than a 16v conversion (w/out FI) but cheaper than doing a 16vT 2.0ABA...all in all it i'd rather go with a a 20v head (esp when you consider the price of turbo upgrades from there on being a lot less expensive than going the full custom turbo on a Frankenstein motor)