Topic: couple codes I need help with... (Read 1097 times)

mjohnson · « **on:** June 25, 2009, 04:02:49 PM »

Sorry, it's been so long since my last post folks...Been so busy with flight school, but now I'm on a 3 week break. One of the things on my to do list is fix my buddy's 1.8t.

He was at a light with the thing running perfectly fine. He went to take off from the light and the thing died. He went to start it again..it seemed to attempt to fire, but then no joy. The timing belt has been the suspect since he hasn't had it changed yet and hes got 92k on it. I started pulling things to start with replacing the timing belt (needs to be done even if it's not the problem) and noticed that the belt is still intact. With a puzzled look on my face I grabbed my code reader and snagged these 3 codes:

P0343(pd) - Camshaft position sensor A circuit high input (bank one or single sensor)
P0122(pd) - Throttle/pedal position sensor switch A circuit low input
P0222(pd) - Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch B circuit low input

Need some ideas.

Did a quick google on p0343 and found that some dude on his kia had the same code with an intact timing belt. He took it out and looked at everything. Turns out the key on the crankshaft was broken. Welded a new on...problem solved.

VWO4L · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2009, 05:04:53 PM »

Looking at it from a VW standpoint, ross-tech shows that it could be a camshaft position sensor.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/16727/P0343/000835

Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes
Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Timing misaligned

Possible Solutions
Check Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
Check Timing

That would at least be the easiest solution anyhow. I'd try that then move on to more difficult solutions from there.

mjohnson · « **Reply #2 on:** June 26, 2009, 08:31:14 AM »

upon further investigation I realized I was wrong about the timing belt. Some teeth at the very bottom (near the crank) were worn off but the belt was not broken still giving it tension and the appearance of a perfectly good t-belt. I gotta manufacture a stand today and start pulling everything. With a stroke of luck the valves and pistons will be serviceable!! I hate timing belts...

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #3 on:** June 26, 2009, 01:38:01 PM »

Goood luck with it man!! Let us know when you are going to be back in COS!

mjohnson · « **Reply #4 on:** June 26, 2009, 03:15:06 PM »

prolly around christmas

mjohnson · « **Reply #5 on:** July 02, 2009, 03:26:24 AM »

Ok, so I swapped the timing belt and fired her up. It took a minute but she finally ran, but VERY rough. I suspected misfiring on 3 of the cylinders which I confirmed with the code reader. Cylinders 2,3,4. I swapped out the ignition coils with mine (known to work) and tried again. Ran just as bad but this time it was just cylinders 3,4 that were misfiring. It idles really bad..less than 600 and will die if the gas is not feathered. I double checked the timing and both pulleys seem to be lined up, maybe just a cunt hair off. I've checked everything and I don't see anything obvious that I missed. Only thing else I can think of is to either advance or retard the timing by a tooth. Any ideas?

mjohnson · « **Reply #6 on:** July 02, 2009, 12:01:27 PM »

Really? No one has any idea?

That's hard to believe folks.

Giggidy · « **Reply #7 on:** July 02, 2009, 12:34:19 PM »

did you see if maybe the cat's clogged?

Smokestack · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2009, 02:51:00 PM »

Bent valves? Do a quick comp. check.

mjohnson · « **Reply #9 on:** July 02, 2009, 09:30:36 PM »

Quote from: Giggidy on July 02, 2009, 12:34:19 PM

did you see if maybe the cat's clogged?

Quote from: Smokestack on July 02, 2009, 02:51:00 PM

Bent valves? Do a quick comp. check.

I will check it out tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas.

mjohnson · « **Reply #10 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:36:47 AM »

Comp test results:

Cyl 1 - 185psi
2 - 178
3 - 0
4 - 180

I suspect bent valves in cylinder 3. It makes sense that just the valves on one cylinder would be messed up rather than more because the teeth on the timing belt sheered off in one place and it didn't look like it turn much past. Also, when I tried to turn the cam (prior to swapping the t-belt) it would rotate only partial turns fore/aft until being "caught up" on something, not allowing it to turn at all. I'm going to be pulling the head today and seeing what the dealio is.

Thanks for the help thus far guys.

mjohnson · « **Reply #11 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:46:37 AM »

Just browsing parts real quick to give my buddy an idea of cost.. Anyone have an objection to replacing just the damaged valves/seals as apposed to all 20 of them?

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #12 on:** July 03, 2009, 08:50:29 AM »

it may be cheaper and less time if you just bought a head. If you are going to pay to do the valves and seals, you might as well pay a little more and go bigger and neck the valve stems.

mjohnson · « **Reply #13 on:** July 03, 2009, 09:05:37 AM »

Here's the thing though. It's on my buddy's daily driver. Unfortunately he is not a gear head at all nor does he have the money to pay for the parts I can put in his car. Basically all I am doing is just getting his car driveable again. If I can get away with just working the one set of valves/seals, then it should only be about $80 in parts. ECS wants 2100 for a new head w/ valves. I'm not going to have a definite knowledge of parts needed until the head is apart. Once I get there then I'll present the options to the dude. Dude's gettin a sweet deal from me anyway as far as labor goes. Shops around here wanted $2500-3k.

mjohnson · « **Reply #14 on:** July 03, 2009, 04:26:37 PM »

First off, I hate special tools!!!

Ok, now that that's off my chest. Does anyone know where I can get my hands on a #10 polydrive socket for the head bolts? Obviously I can order one of the internet or snag one off the snap on truck, but I'm just looking for something I can get this weekend, instead of waiting.

Smokestack · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2009, 05:44:13 PM »

Poly wha? Is that also known as a triple square(inverted twelve point)? Autozone has a cheap triple square set for like $12 that might work.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2009, 07:12:14 PM »

weird?? Hmmm dude just put YOUR head on his car, then build you a monster flowing head.

mjohnson · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2009, 07:38:45 PM »

Quote from: scurvy_bandit on July 03, 2009, 07:12:14 PM

weird?? Hmmm dude just put YOUR head on his car, then build you a monster flowing head.

Hmm..Interesti ng concept.

Quote from: Smokestack on July 03, 2009, 05:44:13 PM

Poly wha? Is that also known as a triple square(inverted twelve point)? Autozone has a cheap triple square set for like $12 that might work.

No. It looks similar to Torx. In fact I tried using my Torx bits, but 50 is too small and 55 is too big and there aren't any other sizes in between. I looked. That's when I found out that the head bolts are #10 Polydrive. Lame balls. Guess I'll snag one off the snap on truck.

Smokestack · « **Reply #18 on:** July 03, 2009, 11:06:00 PM »

A triple square bit is a twelve point torx bit.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #19 on:** July 03, 2009, 11:09:06 PM »

BAM

chris · « **Reply #20 on:** July 05, 2009, 11:26:48 AM »

that's the same one i used on my drive shaft halves when i did my clutch and lightweight fly wheel. got my at autozone for like $12 also

mjohnson · « **Reply #21 on:** July 05, 2009, 01:20:16 PM »

Quote from: Smokestack on July 03, 2009, 11:06:00 PM

A triple square bit is a twelve point torx bit.

I know what a triple square is...

Triple square

Polydrive

Torx

I'm looking at the head bolts now and it without a doubt looks like the polydrive and none of the others

Smokestack · « **Reply #22 on:** July 05, 2009, 03:08:17 PM »

Stupid Volkswagen. They need to pick a bit and stay with it.

mjohnson · « **Reply #23 on:** July 05, 2009, 07:22:25 PM »

Quote from: Smokestack on July 05, 2009, 03:08:17 PM

Stupid Volkswagen. They need to pick a bit and stay with it.

agreed

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #24 on:** July 05, 2009, 08:37:56 PM »

remove the poly drive, buy APR and be done with it.

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