Print

[The Asshole]

well barry and i got the old lump pulled out last night after hitting some 'show stopper' problems.

old drivers side motor mount was broken, which caused the exhaust manifold to split in half. going to buy new headers and some new brackets for the A/C compressor and alternator, since the factory brackets are built into the exhaust manifolds.

need new motor mounts.

the old lump can not be rebuilt because the engine locked up in a very unusual way.....

the brand new RV-grind cam the i had put in 2 years ago (about 300miles on it) shattered. that's right is shattered. when we pulled the engine the rear part of the cam was hanging out and leaning on the flex-plate. we pulled the torque converter/flex-plate and pulled part of the cam, a bunch of block fragments, out of the rear journal, a lifter and push rod fell into the oil pan...good times......

i'm off to the parts stores to see about buying some new parts..... barry has some pics and I'll go takes some once i can backed the truck out of the garage

[Jesus]

There's some particular circumstance that causes the cam to break.. I just can't remember as I haven't fucked with a small block chevy since High school 

[Barry]

yeah.... improper casting methods... this was a failure of the iron itself.... Cam broke into several small sections.

It was pretty interesting, since I have never worked on a Chevy, and you realize when you're in it that every V8 is pretty much the same....

[SwiftMKIII]

Warped or mis-aligned head can do it.

[SwiftMKIII]

... you realize when you're in it that every V8 is pretty much the same...

It would seem that this applies to most 4 cycle motors

[The Asshole]

well i cleaned the enginebay and front suspension yesterday and finished swapping parts and brackets from the old motor to the new motor....just finished getting the garage ready and the rest  of the parts cleaned up.... engine is ready for install which i'll start after lunch.

got the new prothane motor mounts installed, still have to install the polyurethane swaybar mounts before i drop the engine in.

still need 2 AN fittings for the fuel lines, and the exhaust manifold hasn't been delivered yet, but i'm close to the point where i can fire her up and set the timing.

i also ordered a complete new factory interior: upholstery (white vynyl with houndstooth inserts), armrests (white), doorcards (white), dash pad (white), carpet (gold), carpet pad and soundproofing/insulation, chrome door sill carpet ends, Grant walnut/billet chevy 15" steering wheel  (classic corvet look). 


here are some pictures.....




the nastiness...




the new hotness and cleanliness




the new heart....


well back to work.

[The Asshole]

ok got the motor in, and mounted to the tranny and is just sitting on mounts because i had a few problems....

 problem #1: the harmonic balancer is not as wide as the one on the old 327 so the V-belt pullies dont line up exactly, there is a 1/4" difference....

solution: attempt to make this work. if not i'll buy the GM perfromance parts serpentine conversion kit.

problem #2: With Prothane urethane motor mounts, the "motor mount thru bolt", that goes thru the lower mount and bolts into the urethane mount itself, does not fit thru the lower (steel) mount and has to be drilled out.

solution: so I'll lift the engine and pull out those 2 pieces drill it out and post those pics later....

here it sits.... (please excuse the massive wire mess that still needs to be sorted out)





my new interior is on back order......

[Southcross]

problem #1: the harmonic balancer is not as wide as the one on the old 327 so the V-belt pullies dont line up exactly, there is a 1/4" difference....

solution: attempt to make this work. if not i'll buy the GM perfromance parts serpentine conversion kit.

check the accessory pulleys... often they have shims behind them for alignment, you might be able to remove them to make the pulleys line up.... or visa versa.  Or even like our Bosch alternators have different pulleys (one for AC and one for Non-AC) that can be swapped

[punkrider99]

here's a future fyi for you jimmy: you can actually leave the torque converter on the transmission when you pull the motor.  that way you don't lose a gallon of atf and make a giant fucking mess.  just take off the lower cover and turn the motor over so you can access the six bolts one at a time.  then viola, the motor comes out and the torque converter stays behind.

also, as for problem #1, why not just reuse the old dampner?

[punkrider99]

btw are you using a mechanical or electric fuel pump?

[The Asshole]

here's a future fyi for you jimmy: you can actually leave the torque converter on the transmission when you pull the motor.  that way you don't lose a gallon of atf and make a giant fucking mess.  just take off the lower cover and turn the motor over so you can access the six bolts one at a time.  then viola, the motor comes out and the torque converter stays behind.

also, as for problem #1, why not just reuse the old dampner?

i know you can leave the converter on the tranny in most cases, but you cant leave torque converter on when the block is locked up and can't turn the engine.

the 327 has a different harmonic balancer than the 350 and they are not interchangeabl e. 350 requires an 8" balancer.

need to get a new crank pulley, or serpentine conversion kit....

[The Asshole]

btw are you using a mechanical or electric fuel pump?

mechanical since it is still carbed, holley billet mech fuel pump. not sure the specs off the top of my head....

[punkrider99]

the 327 has a different harmonic balancer than the 350 and they are not interchangeabl e. 350 requires an 8" balancer.

that's incorrect.  all 350's and 327's were originally internally balanced and can use any neutral balanced dampners.  the o.d. of the dampner has no affect on anything.  also, 350's do not "require" an 8" balancer.  gm made a few million 350's that had 6.75" dampners. 

the only chevy that was ever externally balanced was the 400 and it requires a specific balancer and flywheel.  unless you've got a 383 on your hands you can interchange the balancer without any problems.

as for the fuel pump, there are four threaded holes on the front of the block.  they're the old style front motor mount bosses.  the upper hole on the passenger side actually goes all the way through to the hole that the fuel pump push rod lives in.  if you don't put a bolt with some sealant in this hole you'll have a massive oil leak.  be sure do use a short bolt otherwise you'll drive the end of the bolt into the fuel pump push rod and you'll really fuck things up.

[The Asshole]

the 327 has a different harmonic balancer than the 350 and they are not interchangeabl e. 350 requires an 8" balancer.

that's incorrect.  all 350's and 327's were originally internally balanced and can use any neutral balanced dampners.  the o.d. of the dampner has no affect on anything.  also, 350's do not "require" an 8" balancer.  gm made a few million 350's that had 6.75" dampners. 

the only chevy that was ever externally balanced was the 400 and it requires a specific balancer and flywheel.  unless you've got a 383 on your hands you can interchange the balancer without any problems.

as for the fuel pump, there are four threaded holes on the front of the block.  they're the old style front motor mount bosses.  the upper hole on the passenger side actually goes all the way through to the hole that the fuel pump push rod lives in.  if you don't put a bolt with some sealant in this hole you'll have a massive oil leak.  be sure do use a short bolt otherwise you'll drive the end of the bolt into the fuel pump push rod and you'll really fuck things up.

ok, good to know.....  i got a shim kit for the new balancer to align the pullies the ~1/4" i need.

i know about the oil leak, the previous owner replaced the fuel pump and went thru a 1-2qts of oil a week because her didn't plug that gap.

already checked the hole you are refering to is already sealed with an Hex-plug and sealant. i knew that one, the previous owner had it unplugged and "burned through 1-2qts of oil a week" which is why there was so much oil/greese build up on the suspension, chassis, and engine/tranny....there is even an oil streak on the inside of the hood from where the oil was being flung by the fan.....cleani ng all that oil took me 6hours, 12 cans of degreaser a 1600psi preassure washer and a wire brush, and its only about 90% clean.

[The Asshole]

Well after I finally got the engine back in the truck fired right up..... yay!
HOWEVER, the tranny was not shifting past 1st gear….so I took it to my favorite mechanic shop Al De Mark (Costilla and tejon), and had the tranny pulled and rebuilt with heavy duty parts, replaced the factory torque converter to a B&M  2500stall high performance. The Radiator was  sent to Manny's radiator shop to fix a crack in the radiator end cap where the upper radiator hose attaches.
Picked it up yesterday, filled her up with Premium unleaded and drove her around for a while.
The tranny now works flawlessly and will be able to with stand any performance mods I want to throw at it. The only part I need to replace is the 3 to 1 transmission kick-down switch (pedal mounted) as its it not completing the circuit under WOT.
Another bad thing is after sitting for 2 years the brand new alpine deck in the truck will not play any CDs…..so that needs to be replaced as well. The only mechanicals that have not been replaced on the entire truck are: Alternator, Power steering pump, Steering gear, Brake booster and master cylinder.
I have a complete new interior for the truck which I will be installing on Sunday.

Pics for clicks:







now for Wheels/Tires and maybe some airbags.

[Smokestack]

Get some cragers, or is it fuchs?

[RSR32]

and the ball starts rolling....
oh and i just ordered this

engine specs

Stage: 1
HP: 325
TORQUE: 373
Engine Type: Chevy Small Block V8
Displacement (cu.in): 350
Block: O.E. Cast 4 Bolt
Bore / Stoke: 4.030 X 3.480
Crankshaft: OE 2 Piece Seal
Rods: Powder metal
Pistons: Hypereutectic
Rings: Moly
Camshaft Type: HYD. Flat Tappet
Camshaft Lift: .465 IN X .488 EX
Camshaft Duration @.50: 224 IN X 234 EX
Cylinder Head Type: OE Cast 72cc Chambers
Chamber Size: 76 cc
Valve Size: 1.94 IN X 1.50 EX
Intake Runner Volume: OE
Compression Ratio: 8.9:1
Rocker Arm Type: Stamped Steel
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.5:1
Sheet Metal: Chrome V/C T/C Black O/P
Recommended Fuel: 92 Octane
Ignition Timing: 36 Degrees Total Advance
Max RPM: 5800
Warranty: 24/Unlimited
Dyno Proven: YES

plus:

water pump
flex-plate
harmonic balancer
spark plugs and 8mm wires
dyno test and tune

and i also had them upgrade the rods to some boost-approved H-beam rods......so she'll be ready for....

just need to sell my honda for this.

should put her above 375 to the rear wheels when all said and done.....

sweet...i see a roots type supercharger.. .

what kind is it?

my blown v6 passat had an Eaton m62 roots type...

[Southcross]

nevermind...